From market to table



Bob Capazzo

Jean-Louis Gerin of Restaurant Jean-Louis remembers being dragged by his grandmother to the local farmers market in his village in France every Thursday and Saturday when he was a young boy. “We had to stop at every single stall — ‘How are you?’ ‘And your son?’ ‘Will he marry that girl?’ — and it would take all day.” His Uncle Paul, the local butcher, would be there at his stand with his farm-raised poultry along with the rest of the Gerin clan — uncles, aunts and cousins. For years after moving to this country, Gerin did not serve chicken in his restaurant because he never found poultry whose taste he liked. Now he buys from a small farmer, and you will find boneless quail stuffed with blue crab on his menu.

Frederic Kieffer of Gaia also remembers his childhood market as a social milieu. “I’ll see you next week,” was always the parting phrase, he says, because, indeed, the market was the place to catch up on the latest news. Frederic can still recall the marshmallows dipped in chocolate from one artisanal candymaker (“there were always candy stalls at the markets,” he says) and the endless rows of fishmongers, bread bakers and farmers, all displaying their goods in a dizzying array of color and selection. One vendor, he recalls, had his own charcuterie of salami, ham, cheese and sausage.

Thomas Henkelmann of his eponymous restaurant at the Homestead Inn was, like his colleagues, exposed to farmers markets at a very young age. His parents, who owned a restaurant in Alsace, were frequent visitors to nearby markets (“every village had their own,” he says). One man, he says, sold foie gras every week.

François Kwaku-Dongo of L’Escale restaurant had a fuller immersion into a farmers market: His grandfather grew pineapples, mangoes and cocoa in West Africa, which were then sold at the village farmers market. François says vegetables purchased there were so fresh, they barely had to be cooked. He takes his commitment to the land of his fathers a step further: He buys cocoa from small-scale farmers in West Africa, has it sent to a candy factory where it is made into chocolate bars called Omanhene (Whole Foods is considering selling them) and then gives some of his profits back to the farmers to help them in maintaining their farms.

Farmers markets help us enjoy the true essence of everything we eat. Each of these talented chefs deals with artisanal cheese makers and local farmers of fruits, vegetables, poultry, dairy and meat. Their producing recipes reflect their creative instincts and the freshness of their ingredients. Such a finely honed symbiosis between land and cook and table will sustain our planet for generations to come.

 

Greenwich Agenda

  • SAT & ACT Prep Classes

    2014.08.02
     @ Greenwich Education Group

    If you are planning on taking the SAT or the ACT in October or November, this is an ideal time to start your preparation! Once school begins,...

  • Family Fun Art Activities: Roz Chast - A Cartoon Creation

    2014.08.20
     @ Bruce Museum

    This is a free, drop-in program for families. Pick up a self-guided gallery hunt for the featured exhibition -- Roz Chast, Beyond The...

  • Seaside Center: Shoreline Seining and Plankton Tow

    2014.07.20
     @ Seaside Center

    Help us gather plankton and see what creatures are living in our ocean’s water! Examine microscopic organisms caught in our plankton net...

  • Cool and Collected ‘14

    2014.07.10
     @ Kenise Barnes Fine Art

    (Gallery 1) Featuring artists:  Carla Goldberg, Melanie Kozol, Francis Sills, and Eve Stockton Summer exhibition at Kenise Barnes...

  • Summer Vacation Day Programs- Grades K-6

    2014.08.18
     @ Stamford JCC

    Monday August 18 To Friday August 22, 8am – 6pm Monday-Baking a Mitzvah Tuesday-Scavenger Hunt Wednesday- Ice Cream Craze....

  • TREEHOUSES: Look Who's Living in the Trees!

    2014.06.21
     @ Stamford Museum & Nature Center

    Saturday, June 21 - Monday, September 1 Hidden in the leaves, snug in the trunk or burrowed under the roots, what types of animals actually...

  • Exhibit: Tales of Two Cities: New York & Beijing | Greenwich, CT

    2014.05.03
     @ Bruce Museum

    May 3 – August 31, 2014 Tales of Two Cities: New York & Beijing This exhibition focuses on two of the world’s leading...

  • Seaside Center: Squid Disection

    2014.07.16
     @ Seaside Center

    Join us for a special opportunity to learn all about these fascinating mollusks! Call (203) 637-3515 or email seasidecenter@brucemuseum.org...

  • Wine Time Social Hour | Greenwich, CT

    2014.01.27
     @ Barcelona Greenwich

    $4.00 select wines, $4.00 well drinks, and $3.00 beers.

  • Happy Hour | Greenwich, CT

    2014.01.26
     @ Morello Italian Bistro

    Refresh yourself with our famous Red & White Sangria! Don’t forget that during happy hour every day 4:30pm-6:30pm your 2nd drink...

  • Pregnancy /Baby Fair

    2014.08.21
     @ Gigge Store

    Happy Healthy Pregnancy and Baby Fair August 21st ;30-8;30 pm Giggle BabyStore 102 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich CT Personlized shopping,...

  • Greenwich MakerBot Store Innovator Session with Jess Chung

    2014.08.21
     @ Greenwich MakerBot Store

    Teachers, students, parents, and everyone interested in modern education and technology is invited to hear Jess Chung, a teacher and MOUSE Squad...

  • Happy Hour Beauty Thursdays!

    2014.06.30
     @ ELLELA Cosmetics & Lashes

    Our Summer Happy Hour Beauty Thursdays are back at ELLELA Cosmetics! Hit the top of Greenwich Ave from 4pm to 8pm for the BEST Blowouts before...

  • Tree-Mendous Treks

    2014.07.10
     @ Stamford Museum & Nature Center

    Thursdays, July 10 - August 21, 3:30 - 4:30 pm After visiting our new exhibit, TREEHOUSES: Look Who's Living in the Trees, join one of...

  • Greenwich Harbor Sunset Wine Cruise | Greenwich, CT

    2014.06.05
     @ Delamar Hotel Dock

    The boat "Prudence" departs from the Delamar Hotel Dock on 500 Steamboat Rd. All the wine is sponsored through VALS with food...

  • Seaside Center: Coastal Scavenger Hunt

    2014.07.03
     @ Seaside Center

    Timed for low tide exploration. A scavenger hunt for nature’s treasures. 11:00 am: July 3, 17, 31, Aug 14, 28 3:00 pm: June 26, July...

  • Seaside Center: Seaweed Pressing

    2014.07.18
     @ Seaside Center

    Look at the different seaweeds around Greenwich Point and learn about their role in the marine ecosystem. We will end with a seaweed pressing...

  • Seaside Center: Arts and Crafts

    2014.07.18
     @ Seaside Center

    Let your creativity float free! Practice the art of Gyotaku fish prints; make a sundial, a shell wind chime, or fish bowl! Activities vary every...

  • Vals Free Weekly In-Store Wine Tasting | Greenwich, CT

    2014.05.09
     @ Val's Putnam Wine And Liquors

    Each Friday we feature new wines just released and new to market for you to have an opportunity to taste and learn about through our sponsored...

  • Saturday Vals Free Weekly In-Store Wine Tasting | Greenwich, CT

    2014.05.10
     @ Val's Putnam Wine And Liquors

    We will feature an array of new and different International wines that are selected by our staff as “Staff Picks Favorites” in...


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